Cheryl White and David Denborough spent ten days in Papua New Guinea in
February 2004. This trip occurred largely due to the encouragement of our Samoan
colleague, Kiwi Tamasese, who pointed out to us that while we have been trying
to find ways to respond to Australian colonial histories in relation to
Indigenous Australia, we have yet to examine Australia’s colonial history in the
Pacific. With daily news reports highlighting the current crisis in Papua New
Guinea and the fact that Australian Police were soon to begin patrolling the
streets of Port Moresby, it seemed an appropriate time to visit.
One week ago we were sitting in the main meeting space of a village about
half an hour out of Madang on the north coast of Papua New Guinea. It was a hot
and humid day. Across the dirt floor a small pig wandered its way in to meet us
and was then quickly removed. Its squealing seemed to indicate that it wanted to
stay for the discussions.
The women were seated on one side of the circle and the men on the other.
There was delight in people’s eyes as soon as we smiled. One of the men had been
carrying a mesh bag on his head. When he passed us we realised that there was a
baby in the bag. As he sat down he placed the bag on a hook in the wall. The bag
continued to gently rock the child who was sleeping soundly.
We’d been taken through the rainforest and the locals had shown to us their
Birds of Paradise. Then we had been offered food – coconut, yam, sweet potato
and spinach - all freshly grown in the village gardens. Once we had eaten it was
time to talk.
Our guide translated our English into Pidgin and their Pidgin into English.
We explained that we had come to Papua New Guinea to learn more about
Australia’s nearest neighbour. We wanted to know about the history of connection
between our respective peoples. We wished to hear their thoughts about
Australia, how we had acted over time and if they could envisage ways in which
the relationship between our countries could be enhanced.
We had traveled to Papua New Guinea because Australia is one of various
countries with a colonizing history in their land. The Portuguese, the English,
the Germans, the Japanese and Australians have all had a significant impact in
PNG. Australia had a colonial role in what is now known as Papua New Guinea from
the early 1900s until 1975.
Before I set foot in Papua New Guinea my knowledge of Australia-PNG relations
was limited. I knew that the Leahy brothers, who were Australians, had been the
first white people that the Highlanders of Papua New Guinea had ever seen1.
I knew that the ‘fuzzy-wuzzy angels’ had saved countless lives of Australian
service men during WWII along the Kokoda Trail2. And I knew the
recent stories in the Australian media that depicted PNG as an island in crisis,
with violent crime drastically escalating and corruption endemic.
When we told friends and colleagues that we were to travel to PNG we heard
many warnings of the possible dangers. Sitting in the village, surrounded by
welcoming faces, it was difficult to put these stories together. Throughout our
time in PNG we took care to ensure that we open to hearing negative feedback
about Australia and Australians but overwhelmingly we heard how the locals
understood that Australia and Papua New Guinea are very long-term friends. They
were greatly appreciative of the Aid that the Australian Government offers to
PNG. Despite the fact that many Australians have made considerable money from
their dealings with Papua New Guinea while the country remains impoverished;
despite the fact that as far as I know we have yet to properly support the
‘fuzzy-wuzzy angels’ for their service to our country; despite the fact that the
transition to independence was not handled well and that economic independence
has still not been achieved; the people with whom we spoke expressed sincere
good will to Australia and to Australians.
This had also been true in the Highlands. When trekking through the
rainforests our guide would call out across the valleys announcing our arrival,
and he would be answered in song by those on the other side. As we walked
through relatively isolated villages, women with faces adorned with dots and
lines and circles, and with large bundles of grasses on their heads, would greet
us and in silence shake our hands. No matter how many people we met, it was
expected that we would all make contact in this way. This seemed more than a
wish, more like a formal yet friendly protocol. We were clearly from far away
and this joining across different worlds, no matter how brief, was required. We
had no common language, only warm and significant eye contact and the touching
of hands. We looked as different from one another as is possible to imagine. And
then, suddenly, I would realise that the woman whose hand I was shaking was
wearing the jumper of an Australian Rugby League Team. They were the most
popular piece of clothing in the Highlands.
In the village meeting it was explained to us that if anything, the locals
wanted more connection with Australians. As they explained it, we are closest
neighbours and yet still know so little about each other. There was a touch of
sadness or longing in their voices as they explained that Australians seem to
have some strange ideas about Papua New Guinea and that relatively few
Australians ever visit. They wanted us to encourage our friends to come and meet
with them also.
In our discussions, we also learnt that less than half the people of PNG have
access to clean water. Many of the roads are only passable by 4-wheel drive
vehicles and infant mortality rates and the incidences of women dying in child
birth are devastatingly high.3 It is a country struggling to cope
with people drifting out of remote villages and finding themselves unemployed in
the coastal cities. What is more, unless current rates of infection are
drastically reduced, HIV/AIDS promises to bring devastation in years to come.
The lives being lived by people in Papua New Guinean villages are so very
different than the lives of those I know in Australia. And yet we are nearest
neighbours. Papua New Guinea is a one hour flight from Cairns.
The villagers conveyed to us that if there was a chance for Australians to
assist them in relation to health or education then our contributions would be
treasured. The locals are clearly appreciative of formal Aid programs and yet
they also know that in a country like Papua New Guinea there is no way that
these programs can reach every village. Those we met with seemed most
enthusiastic about building relationships between Australians and Papua New
Guineans through ‘village-to-village’ connections. This was a phrase that was to
stay with us throughout the rest of our trip.
It was a phrase that represented a practical position but also a
philosophical one. When links are built from village-to-village then
decision-making can stay in the hands of those most affected by the decisions.
What is more, personal relationships can be created over time, not between
villagers and organisations, or villagers and government departments, but
between ordinary Papua New Guineans and ordinary Australians. And importantly,
these relationships can be reciprocal. The villagers we spoke with would like to
welcome Australian visitors, to show them hospitality, to offer tours of their
rainforest. And in return perhaps we can try to contribute to addressing some of
the key health and educational issues facing their community.
As we were sitting with our feet in the dirt, the obvious questions then
became ‘Well, what is our village? Who are we representing here?’ In time the
answers came. While we do not live in a geographic village, our lives are linked
to a particular community of people joined by certain ideas. A particular group
of people read this website, subscribe to the journal we produce, attend
training courses and conferences that we host. We are linked to narrative
therapy and community work practitioners around Australia and in different parts
of the world. This is our village. It is our starting point.
We are envisaging inviting those with whom we are linked to make donations to
a ‘Village-to-village project’. We will also be encouraging anyone who is in a
position to do so to visit to Papua New Guinea and to make links with those whom
we know would welcome their presence.
Writing this piece and sending it to you is our version of calling a village
meeting. We would like to hear your views on what we have written here. We would
like to know if you are interested in being a part of an ongoing
‘Village-to-village’ project.
Sitting here back in Australia, it feels somehow shocking to me how far away
Papua New Guinea now seems. This land to our north, where Australians made first
contact, where our young men died fighting for their country; where the locals
carried the sick and supplies, is no longer in the consciousness of the people
of Australia.
All we hear now are the negative stories. I don’t mean to imply that these
stories are untrue. It’s just that they are not the only stories to be told.
There are so many others. We hope you will join us in the making and sharing of
new stories about Papua New Guinea, about Australia, and about the relationship
between our peoples.
If we were to take up the invitations of the villagers to visit them, then I
suspect the disconnection between the people of Australia and the people of
Papua New Guinea would be no longer. The images of Papua New Guinea are vivid.
The faces of the village women. The mist in the mountains. The view over the
valleys. The market scenes. The colours of the flowers in the small, well-cared
for cemeteries. The tropical beauty of the Madang peninsula. The coral reefs.
The Birds of Paradise…and the children.
The children we met had joyful spirits. Waving to us as our car passed their
village, or kindly directing us through the rainforest. The images of these
children will remain with me. They had no shoes, were at great risk of malaria,
and had very limited access to clean water. I will remember all of this, but
more vividly I will recall their curious joyful spirits as they listened to us
discussing the ‘Village-to-village project’.
We invite you to become a part of the Village-to-Village Project. More
information will be available soon. If you would like to be kept up-to-date with
developments please email us and we will keep in touch.
Update 4th October 2005
We are very pleased to report that the Papua New Guinea Village-to-Village
project is now completed! Peter Hollams recently visited PNG and arranged for
the installation of an oven in the village with which we have been liaising. The
village women are very pleased to have a working oven again as this will
enable them to bake bread to sell at the local markets. It was also arranged for
a young woman from the village to attend a book-keeping course. Once the
village can demonstrate accounting skills they will become eligible to apply for
small amounts of development aid.
As mentioned above, This project began over a year ago after a chance visit
to a PNG village led to a village meeting and a wish for links to be built
between this particular village and the Dulwich Centre 'community'. We're
delighted that this project has come to fruition. In fact, AusAID (the
Australian Government Aid Department) is even looking at this project as a
prototype for further ventures!
We want to say thanks to those of you who wrote to us and expressed interest
in this project. It was a new area for us to be involved in. We'd also like to
thank those at Hiya Village, with whom we look forward to a continuing
relationship.
